Surf breaking onto the black volcanic sand of Playa Negra.

The quiet end of Puerto Viejo.

Playa Negra is black volcanic sand, driftwood and coconut palms — and considerably fewer people than the beaches south of town.

The sand really is that colour. It comes from the volcanic rock of the Talamanca range.

Seven minutes on foot

Out of our gate, left along the lane, and you are on the sand. Most mornings there is nobody else on it.

Playa Negra is long, flat and good for walking. The water is open Caribbean, so it has a current and some days it has surf — swim where other people are swimming, and ask us about the day's conditions before you go in with children.

For calm, snorkel-clear water, ride south to Punta Uva. For the reef and the sloths, Cahuita National Park is north.

Worth the ride

Everything below is within an hour, most of it on a bicycle. We can arrange the tours and the taxis.

Puerto Viejo town

10 minutes by bicycle

Restaurants, bakeries, the Saturday market, bike rental, dive shops and a lot of music. Busy in the evening in a way that Playa Negra never is.

Jaguar Rescue Center

About 8 km south

A rescue and release centre for sloths, monkeys, snakes and birds. Tours run in the morning; book ahead in high season.

Punta Uva and Manzanillo

25–40 minutes south

The calm, turquoise, postcard beaches. Manzanillo is the end of the road and the start of the Gandoca-Manzanillo reserve.

Cahuita National Park

About 30 minutes north

A coastal trail through the forest with a coral reef offshore. Entry to the Kelly Creek gate is by donation. Sloths and howler monkeys are near-certain.

Wildlife without leaving

In the garden

Sloths, howler and capuchin monkeys, iguanas, toucans, and the blue morpho butterflies the place is named for. Early morning is best.

Afro-Caribbean Talamanca

All around you

This coast is culturally its own place — Afro-Caribbean and Bribri, with its own food, its own Spanish and its own English. Eat the rice and beans cooked in coconut milk.

Getting here

By car from San José
Roughly four and a half hours via Limón. There is free private parking inside our gate, so a rental car is easy here.
By bus
Direct services run from San José to Puerto Viejo several times a day and take about five hours. From the bus stop in town it is a short taxi ride to us.
By air
Limón airport is about an hour away; San José's international airport is the usual arrival point. We can arrange a private transfer either way.
Finding the gate
From Hotel Banana Azul: 500 m west, 500 m north-east, then 100 m west. Tell us roughly when you will arrive and we will make sure somebody is here.

Directions and contact

Stay where the garden is.

Playa Negra at one end of the lane, Puerto Viejo at the other, and a pool in between.

Check availability